Basics

OK… so you want to preserve the timeless beauty of your ride.

I personally classify detailing in two sections: Bling Factor & more importantly, Preservation Factor.

You will get a thousand different opinions from thousands of different weekend detailers on products and methods of detailing but not all of them are good for your ride.

In order to be a good bike detailer you must have a good understanding of:

Paint

Metals

Plastics

Fiberglass

Rubber

Vinyl

Leather

Electronic Components (so as not to damage them)

As well as have a general mechanical ability in order to remove and reinstall parts.

 

Some absolute DO NOT’S:

Never power-wash your bike (this will only grind in dirt and damage paint and electrical components)

Never use any Armor All product of any kind (sorry Armor All your products suck!) nothing will shorten the life of plastics, leather, rubber or vinyl quicker than Armor All. Plastics, leather, rubber & vinyl need to breath and Armor All suffocates them to death (quickly).

Never wear jewelry or clothes that could scratch paint (and no… Naked is not better… I also wear surgical type gloves (not powdered) to avoid skin oils from getting on the ride… anal but good).

Never detail your bike when you’re in a hurry. (it’s your bike, not a lawn chair!)

Never drink 24 brewskies and decide your gonna’ make your bike look beautiful (you may wake up with more than a headache).

Never wash the bike hot.

Never place tools on the bike for just a second.

Never forget what I’ve said above

 

Your bike is a precious jewel… treat it that way. (man I can’t believe how nice the rides on this forum are… I love them all… each one as unique as the owner)

 

Alright, that said, let’s break down the detailing into two categories:

The Lazy Detail & The Full Detail

For the most part, we will detail our bikes sort of the lazy way… because let’s face it, we are inherently lazy. So what we do is search for the best all purpose products and give the bike what we consider a good goin’ over. There’s nothing wrong with that if we use the right techniques and products for general maintenance.

 

The “Lazy Detail” does not involve removing anything from the bike unless it comes off easily and is what most people will choose to do. The “Full Detail” is quite involved and will require stripping down the bike and once you are good at it, will take approx. 16 hrs. on a mid-sized bike (softail).

 

I recommend doing a full detail before storing the bike (which we do for at least 6 months up here in Canada… and hate it) or once a year, which ever comes first.

The full detail is all about preservation for me, I want my great, great, great grandkids to look at the bike one day and say, “Wow… is that new?”

 

You get the picture…

The Great Product Debate

What to use? What’s the best? Is more expensive better?

Man, what a playday advertisers have with us! All I have to do is answer the three questions above and I’ve got your undying loyal business for life! In fact you will almost defend me to the death!

Do you know that many name brand products are made by the same manufacturer?

They may have just a few differences in ingredients and call it their own. The nicer the sticker on the bottle, the better the product right? The bottle with the shiniest looking car on the front is the one to beat right?. LOL

 

The truth is not all product manufacturers have a good understanding of the finishes they treat… Armor All being the poster child… it’s all about advertising and cash. Bottom line.

There are some products however that have stood the test of time and user experimentation that stand above the rest. Selling autocare products is a multibillion dollar industry like cosmetics for women. Tell me… if your ugly aunt Sue uses the most expensive cosmetic products, will she become beautiful? Get my point?

 

What about Maquires, Zaino, Mothers, etc. ???

All good products… period.

Would I use them? No… period.

 

Feel free to use any product you trust on your ride, some guys swear by wax, I don’t and that’s OK… everyone has their own personal preference in what they trust on their bike. Like I said earlier, when a company wins you over… You’re Owned.

There are some products however, that I will get right vocal about… they’re no freakin’ good at all and will damage your ride.

 

I have a list of products that I know are professional grade and have stood the test of time and do not clog or damage the surfaces they are applied to. I like having U.V. protection as well in the products I use because most of the time, my paint is in the sun, my cables are in the sun, my tires are in the sun, my leather, etc.

Anyone care to guess what happens to white paint in the sun? After awhile it looks like Grandma’s teeth. (especially if you use wax)

Here is my shopping list:

Must have section

Plexus Plastic Cleaner (as far as I’m concerned this is the only product to use on windshields and signal or tail light lenses as well as any plastic gauge lenses but you can also follow with an acrylic sealer)

303 Aerospace Protectant  (This one is non-negotiable! Simply amazing what this stuff will do for leather, vinyl, fiberglass, rubber – yes even tires… I would never put any other product on motorcycle tires… I spray my whole tire with it… no slip… more grip)

Extreme Simple Green Precision Equipment Degreaser

The only degreaser to use on a bike. (won't harm powder coatings)

WHEEL GUARD -ACRYLIC WHEEL & RIM HIGH GLOSS PROTECTION

 (another non-negotiable).
When I first got my bike, it was winter up here so I stored it without detailing it because I had no-where to do the work. In the spring, I pulled the bike out and being a Fatboy, the rims where so badly oxidized that I thought I was going to have to replace them… they were to the point of being deeply pitted, the Fatboys will know what I’m talkin’ about, anyway, I spent friggin’ hour upon hour buffing them out and once I was finished, I coated them with some aluminum polish I won’t name so I don’t start a riot… the very next day they were oxidizing again! I was freaked! Hours of work wasted!

I buffed again and used a different, well known, product to seal them, next day, same thing! This went on for four days! Different products each time. I was sure now that I would have to replace the rims. Then a friend of mine recommended “Wheel Guard”… I figured I might as well give it a try so I could rub it in his face when it didn’t work…

I ordered the product, buffed out the rims again and applied the wheel guard… the next day… no oxidization?! Huh? That wasn’t supposed to happen? Months later… no oxidization and the brake dust or road grime won’t even stick to them! Many washes later… same thing! I’ve only applied it once and 6 months later still standing up!!! UNBELIEVABLE STUFF!

So I got the idea to do all of the chrome on my bike with it… I’ll never use anything else now… dust and dirt fly off… water spots wipe off, it’s heat proof and acrylic which I love… it is simply the best product for metal going… period.

You could actually do the whole bike with it and if I could only choose one product, this would be it.

 

Washes / Shampoos

PPC Real Wheel Cleaner from Aircraft Spruce the best wheel cleaner… period.

 

Not all shampoos are equal but I won’t debate anyone’s preference as long as they are gentle and won’t strip layers of finishings.

 If you are trying to remove wax or other finishing buildup on your paint, use Dawn Dish Detergent (blue)

Here are two excellent shampoos that I recommend:

Citrus Wash & Gloss Synthetic Citrus Based Hyper-Wash+GLOSS (No-More Spots) (1 Gal)

and

Protect All Quick & Easy Wash (waterless - use for touch ups and cleanups)

 

There are many others though and I’m not as anal about this, I use Easy Wash in a spray bottle to touch up spots but there are similar products out there. The citrus wash however is stunning… look at their site where the guys wash the loader (heavy equipment) with it, it looks like a show car afterwards… just from shampoo! They buy 20 gallons a week.

 

For fiberglass fairings or hard bags Protect All Fiberglass Restorer should do the trick.. followed by 303 Aerospace Protectant to bring out the shine and give it some UV protection.

 

CLAYBLOCK®-SURFACE CLEANER CLAY ALTERNATIVE (BLOCK+LUBE) a gentler, safer alternative to clay bars.

 

Paint Treatments

This is usually the area that the most controversy occurs Zaino vs. Maquire’s etc.

It’s your bike… I don’t care what you use but I highly recommend these products and without getting into a 4 page discussion to validate my claims, I’ll let you do your own homework.

 

“Lazy Detailer Package”

If you would rather spend more time riding than detailing and you just want a deep shiney finish that will hold up, or if your bike is new, buy a motorcycle kit from here: CRYSTAL-GLO® Polishes Cleaners Protectants … great stuff! Foolproof and comes with everything you need… you can also use the visor polish on your windshield as a finish and it works great.

These products are Acrylic based so the paint can breath, tuff as nails, dirt or bugs won’t stick and easy to use… you won’t be disappointed! This is my personal “Lazy Detail Kit” and I use it regularly… except for the leather treatment… I only use 303 Aerospace protectant for that. If you’re not as anal as I am, you can use the leather treatment included in the kit, it will work fine… it’s actually very similar.

 

“Pro Package”

If you need to remove swirls, spider webbing or heavy oxidization… or you want to win the bike contest for most spectacular paint you will need the heavy duty stuff.

For removing swirls etc. permanently, you need a professional grade buffer… “Ultimate Detailing Machine” is recommended because it is dual action and less likely to burn or damage paint. (see the Optional Tools section) I will discuss swirl removal and paint restoration in the "Full Detail" pages.

 

To remove swirls, etc. start with:

CGC-1 ULTRA LIGHT Compound MICRO SCRATCH REMOVER(1 Gal)

or

CGC-2 MEDIUM Compound OXIDATION SCRATCH FIGHTER (1 Gal)  if the swirls or scratches are heavy, then work down to CGC-1 (explained later in Full Detail Section)

 

For finishing use:

WET MIRROR FINISH ULTRA SLICK NON-STICK GLOSS MAGNIFIER-Mirror Perfect Reflections (16 oz)  then follow with JETseal109-Protection Beyond Need, Shine Beyond Reason. (16 oz.)  or you can also use M-Seal Micro Finish Factory Paint Sealant -Protection System (Anti-Static) (16 oz)  both are excellent! (No need to use both) I use M-seal because it breaths well and Jet Seal is new but both are great.

 

 

Towels, Applicators & Tools

 

Two Pails one for soap one for clear water

 

Water Filter Removes chlorine, hard water stains etc. You can get a variety of these… inline, whole house etc. I recommend using one though. Do I use one all the time? No. (but I should for swirl reduction and hard water stains)

 

Microfiber Applicators used for applying polishes and finishes. (usually included in kits and Chemical Guys usually throw one in your order box free)

 

Cotton Buffing Towels/Pads (not cotton towels like you use in the shower, these are specifically made for buffing) - included in Crystal-Glo kit.

 

Waffle Weave Micro Fiber Towels work best as far as M.F. towels go… get lots of them and keep them clean in a clear plastic bag and never wash with powdered laundry detergent as it can cause the towel to become abrasive. (also, don't use heat to dry them... just air dry) I separate the ones I use on wheels from the ones I use on paint but I’m sure you will do that naturally. Can never have enough M.F. Towels.

 

Wheel Brush a good wheel brush can be bought in any grocery store for scrubbing dishes… the ones that are stiff and look like a giant toothbrush work best for me.

 

Tire Shine Applicator looks like a sponge with a handle… you use these to apply 303 Aerospace Protectant to tires without getting it on the wheels or rotors.

 

(2) Natural Sheepskin Wool Wash Mitts (1) for under the fenders and (2) for above the fenders - there are synthetic ones but they are harder on paint.

 

Microfiber applicators or sponges are ok but nothing beats the wool wash mitt.

Never wash the mitt or M.F. Sponge in powdered laundry detergent.

 

Shop Rags the blue ones that come in a roll like paper towel… used for greasy cleanups.

Never use old shower towels on paint as they may contain body oils or laundry detergent and can actually scratch paint.

 

Swabs and any other little crevice tool you may come across… some dental brushes are great… ask your dentist for a gum brush… it looks like a dental pick except it is bristles with a nice safe plastic handle. You can buy a “Slick Stixxx” if you feel the urge (nice tool).

 

 

 

Optional Tools:

Depending on how serious you want to get about detailing, you will need some of these tools…

 

A Bike Jack pretty much every bike owner should have one if you wrench on your own ride and it sure makes life easy when you detail the bottom of the bike and wheels. (wheels spin when they are off the ground ;o) )

 

Bike Dryer does a much better job then towel drying.

 

Ultimate Detailing Machine (or Similar like the Griot's Garage Professional 3" Electric Orbital Polisher or a Makita BO6040 … very nice but slightly more dangerous than the U.D.M. and not Harley dangerous either… scary, burn paint, dangerous!) these machines are only necessary if you are going to remove oxidization, swirls or spider webs from paint. 

 

OK… you’ve got the basic tools and products so we are good to roll…

The Lazy Detail:

Bike is in shaded area not direct sunlight and not in the dirt (pavement is best)

 

Remove the seat and wipe down that area with some Easy Wash sprayed onto a shop towel - cover the battery and ignition module with a plastic bag the best you can.

(if equiped) Undo the acorn nut holding the dash on and remove the dash – don’t unplug it, just put the whole dash in a plastic bag and tie it up and drape it carefully over the handle bars making sure it will not damage anything or fall (tie the bag to the handle bars if necessary)

 

Bike is dirty - buckets, M.F. towels and wool wash mitts are clean.

Fill one bucket with clear warm to hot water (not scalding hot).

Fill second bucket with shampoo (see shopping list) and warm to hot water (not scalding hot).

If you have never properly treated the windshield and bug goop is stuck to it, take a blue shop towel and soak it in the soapy water and drape it over the bug goop… this applies to fairings, hard bags or anywhere else on the bike that has goop on it. Let it soak for 5 minutes while you spray some PPC Real Wheel Cleaner on the wheels -  rinse under your fenders with lots of water getting as much crud off as possible. Then use your “under the fender” wash mitt (1) with soap from the soap bucket, rinsing the wash mitt in the clear water bucket and using the soap bucket to add more soap until clean and rinse well.
Note: when you rinse the mitt, gently slap the top of the water in the rinse bucket, this loosens up the particles trapped in the mitt.
If a mitt won't fit under your fenders, just use water (they're comin' off when you do the full detail anyway). Do under the bike too. Now wash the wheels.

 

Wheels

I have to add this for all of my spoked friends:

Get yourself some of Grandmas knitting wool – white is best (so you can see the crud)

Now either ask Grandma to knit you a spoke cleaner (like a 1” wide scarf) or just braid some of the wool into a rope. Now holding both ends of the rope dip the center into some “PPC Real Wheel Cleaner” and do the shimmy up and down each spoke. Rinse it off (careful not to get any overspray on the rest of the bike)

 

Fatboys use the PPC Wheel Cleaner and the giant toothbrush shaped wheel brush and rinse.

 

Now empty the clear water bucket and the soap bucket, rinse them out thoroughly and re-fill them.

 

Back to the bug juice…

Don’t try to pick the bug juice off with the towel, if it’s still tight, put the shop towel back in the soap bucket and repeat the process.

 

(By the way, bug goop and bird bombs are extremely acidic and will ruin unprotected paint… it will eventually ruin protected paint too if left on the bike long enough.)

 

Alright, now that the goop is pliable, remove the shop rags and discard them.

 Take the nozzle off of your garden hose and start flowing the (filtered) water over your bike. Water is actually one of the best solvents there is so let it flow. Now slip on the other wash mitt (not the same one you used under the fenders) and soap the bike (gently)… washing and rinsing one section of the bike at a time… take your time, don’t try to soap the whole bike then rinse the whole bike. (believe me it’s tempting) Rinse the mitt (slapping) in the fresh water bucket frequently and re-soap.

Use your dental “Gum Brush” or other prodding tool of choice and wash out the cooling fins or other hard to reach places if dirty.

 

If this is the first time you’ve detailed your bike, soap up a section again, get yourself a plastic lunch baggie, slip it over your hand and run the baggie gently over the soapy area, this will allow you to feel any contaminants in the paint (I’m talkin’ tank, hard bags, fairing and fenders here) if the baggie glides smoothly your good, if it grabs or you feel little bumps… you will need to clay bar the paint.

Anyone who is familiar with detailing will know what I am talking about, for those of you who don’t… clay barring removes contaminants from paint like a magnet, however, it is abrasive so caution should be taken with the frequency that it is used. (some would argue with me on that point)

 

Clay Barring:

I prefer the alternative to clay and that is CLAYBLOCK®-SURFACE CLEANER CLAY ALTERNATIVE (BLOCK+LUBE)  find directions for use here

 

Good… now wash and rinse again and rinse again and rinse again.

 

Drying:

A bike dryer is a great investment… if your bike was only worth $1000 then I can see the excuse for not getting one but a lower end bike dryer will only set you back a $100 so in my books, well worth it but try to get one with an air filter in it or you could just be blowing contaminants back into the paint. An air compressor can also be used if you use a diffuser and regulate air pressure to around 30 p.s.i. but it must have an outlet air filter and moisture / oil trap type filter.

If you have either one… dry the bike – from top down. (be careful not to blow up sand or dust on to the freshly cleaned bike)

 

If you don’t have one… break out the M.F. Towels and blot (NOT wipe) the water off of the painted areas of the bike. Flipping the towels until saturated, then get a new towel. Put wet towels in a separate plastic bag to be washed later.

Note: If you drop a M.F. Towel on the ground, don't use it! and NO, shaking the dust out of it won't do, it needs to be washed.
Then wipe off the chrome or metal areas.

 

Now is not the time to take a break, you want to seal the paint as soon as the bike is dry.

 

If you purchased the Crystal Glo Kit, break out the Acrylic Motorcycle Polish and using a microfiber applicator (M.F. covered sponge), start applying small amounts of polish to the painted areas with small circular motions – do the whole bike.

 

If you did not purchase the Crystal Glo kit, use the Chemical Guys Wet Mirror Finish the same way.

After the products haze up, buff them off with a cotton buffing towel (see shopping list) and buff it until the buffing towel slides like it's on glass.

If you bought the Crystal Glo kit – you’re done- but if you really want to see it deepen up, do it again (without washing – just polish and buff)

If you bought the Pro Kit you are now ready to use the M-Seal or Jet Seal or a second coat of Wet Mirror, then the Sealer.

Follow directions on the jug.

Done! Coffee break… man do I have to pee! Must have been all that water flowing.

 

Take the dash out of the plastic bag and peel the rubber gasket off of the bottom of it.

If it don’t come off, that’s ok… just wipe it down (the gasket) with 303 Aerospace protectant on a shop towel. If it comes off… move away from the bike and soak it with the 303 A.P. spray… wipe it off and clean the inside of the dash by wiping it out with Easy Wash on a shop towel or Q-tip - reinstall the dash.

Now use the 303 A.P. sprayed onto a shop towel to wipe down all of your cables, secondary drive belt (toothbrush works best for that), remove the windshield and do the rubber mounts, rubber footpegs, floorboards, grips, speedo cable, plug wires, rubber stopper on jiffy stand and any other rubber you can find right down to the tripometer reset button. (don’t forget to get the rubber seal on the taillight with a Q-Tip ) Now go and have a seat in a lawn chair and during your break do the seat and any other leather bags, sissy bar pads, etc.

 

Windshield

Take out your Plexus Cleaner and spray some onto a folded blue shop towel.

Now buff that windshield until it disappears :o)

While you’re at it, do all of the plastic light lenses and markers.

You can also top coat it with the lens polish from the Crystal Glo kit after you’ve buffed it out but it is not a necessity.

 

Phew! Great! You’re a quarter of the way done! (just kidding)

 

 Powder Coatings
Powder coating is awesome stuff, however, it is also more delicate than people think.
Battery acids, acetone, acetone-based solvents, carburetor cleaners, contact cleaners, brake fluid and some other solvents will actually break down powder coating. If you get some stubborn goop on the coating, use alcohol (the rubbing kind) and a toothbrush to get the goop off.
A good shampoo with acrylic sealent properties, like the ones listed above are all that is really needed to care for powder coating. You can build up a supply of toothbrushes for scrubbing with and you can use "Extreme Simple Green Precision Equipment Degreaser" but no other care is really needed. Period.

Can I seal my powder coatings? Yes (I friggin' new you'd ask)
Are there any benefits to sealing it? Yes, Like any other coloured paint, powder coatings can actually fade over time.
Try a sample area first (under the bike or somewhere inconspicuous to see if you like the result)
If your powder coating has a ruff finish, use the Wheel Guard (ever so sparingly - like a pin head) and work it in with a toothbrush... done (If it starts hazing, you haven't worked it in enough).
If the surface is smooth finished apply it with a shop towel (ever so sparingly) and rub it in until gone (don't let it haze)
Do I do it to my powder coatings? No
Why not? Because I like the flat look of powder coatings and I would be pretty freakin' anal to do them! LOL

Chrome (you either love it, hate it or both)

Boot gunk on pipes is a common problem that is easily solved… if it’s just a smear kinda’ thing, use acetone and it will wipe right off (careful not to get any on your powder coatings). If it’s heavy, you can try picking off what you can, then the acetone or you will have to crack out the #0000 steel wool.

(I’ve heard of people using oven cleaner but I don’t recommend it due to it’s caustic nature.)

Most peoples reaction to steel wool on chrome is horror! The truth is that chrome is a metal and can be refinished. Scratches and gouges can be worked out and here’s how:

Note: In cases of light scratches - you can skip the steel wool and start with the Neroli Brown Tripoli. Keep in mind that the chromium finish (chrome) is very thin, so start with the lightest methods first.

If wear or rust are deeper, start with #0000 steel wool (NOT #000), slap some car polish or soap to it (as a lubricant) and start buffing. If it starts to dry up, add more lubricant. The appearance may be dull but keep working until the scratches are gone.
NOTE: If the scratch is deep enough to go through the chromium to the nickel or metal below, just try to knock the sharp edges off of the scratch to reduce the light refractory. This will reduce the look of the scratch and make it less noticeable.
Now use a cotton wheel on a die grinder or high-speed drill and use “Neroli Brown Tripoli Buffing Compound” on the wheel and start buffing the chrome until a more mirror like appearance is achieved. (DON'T ADD MORE COMPOUND)

To finish, use Zam or Red Jewelers Rouge” on the cotton wheel and buff it until it looks better than new. Use the Easy Wash (or similar) on a shop towel to wipe down the area, Done!

Be careful that what you are working on is chrome though and not just thinly covered plastic or plating.

 

OK… to seal or not to seal the chrome? Truth is… it doesn’t matter!

Chrome is good all on it’s own.

Do I seal it? Yes

Why? Because water spots, bugs, tar etc. wipe right off.

This is where “Wheel Guard” comes in… man I just can’t say enough good about this stuff!

A little dab will do ya’ – apply it very sparingly, if you can see orange blobs, you’re using too much. Let it haze and buff it off with a cotton buffing towel or pad – Done! Bling!

(every piece of chrome on the bike – head covers & pipes too)

Oh… don’t forget the wheels

The question was asked on the forum but I couldn't respond - what to use on other metals?

It depends on the metal and the desired result. For example, if I am doing a stock fatboy rim (softer aluminum) and I wanted to keep the stock appearance in the center of the rim but a shinier appearance around the rim... I would use chemical cleaner like PPC Real Wheel Cleaner from Aircraft Spruce on the center of the rim to retain it's bumpy dull appearance and I would buff the outer rim ring with a dremel and cotton wheel using a buffing compound made for aluminum (less abrasive) - buffing with the grain. Then I would seal the whole rim with an acrylic sealer like "Wheel Guard" to prevent oxidization.

And for the finale… Spray some 303 A.P. on the “Tire Shine Applicator” and apply it to the tires – I use the applicator around the rims and up the side walls and spray the ride surface (carefull not to get it on the rotors) but you can use the applicator on the whole tire if you don’t want any overspray.

Let the tires tack up well before riding. Unlike other products, this stuff will actually increase traction and while allowing the rubber to breath, it also protects them from UV breakdown and drying out. It will also increase natural tire life… too good to be true? Try it!

NOTE: You only need to do this once a year or when you see that it has faded off.

I know this is a touchy area, so try it on your cage first. You’ll love it.

Put seat back on – Ride!